Some types of paint such as waterbased acrylics should have a light clear coat applied
over the color BEFORE applying a mask, otherwise, some paint lifting could
occur when the mask is removed...Please note what paint type you are using and
if in doubt, its always wise to go ahead and shoot the light coat of clear on
at this stage!!
Once the paint has dried thoroughly, simply choose and apply an INNER Mask
in the area you want your flames!! You can use one mask or several or even cut
just a few licks off another mask to add to your design!! Again, this is
limited only by your imagination!!
If using Standard Sheet (BOTH Inner and Outer masks, but, NO Application Film), select a mask that suits your needs, and remove from sheet using a precision pair of tweezers or exacto blade. Use caution not to cut or damage the edge of the mask during removal and always start with the widest portion and peel back towards tips of flames for best results. Care must also be used when mask is removed not to let any of the licks cross each other as they will tend to get stuck to one another and can lead to severe damage. Once on the surface, you should inspect for touching or misaligned flame licks before pressing mask down. Any licks that need to be moved can be realigned with careful exacto blade manipulations.
If using a sheet style WITH Application film applied, then its just a matter of choosing the mask or masks you desire and cutting it out of the sheet with a pair of scissors, much like you would do if using a decal. The application film can be a lot easier to use as it keeps all the flame licks constrained in their original positions during installation, thus, no worries of crossed or misaligned flame licks. It also can make repositioning/aligning more reliable as long as the mask is not pressed down. I recommend new users begin with either inner or outer mask sheets WITH application film.
Once you have the mask cut
out, carefully separate the backing from the mask and film...the mask should be
adhered to the film, however, if you notice a mask edge that is still on the
backing when attempting to separate the layers, you should either stop, and
place the mask on a flat hard surface and use a credit card edge of plastic
squeegee to rub over the mask, then attempt to separate again....OR...while
separating, use an exacto or razor blade GENTLY
placing it under the mask and lifting the edge off the backing, while
continuing to pull the film and mask away. This scenario is not common, but,
can happen. Normally, the mask will easily come off the backing, and still on
the film.
Now, you’re ready to place
the mask in the desired area. LIGHTLY put the mask in place, being careful not
to allow it to be pressed down...but rather JUST touching the surface. The
adhesive used on the masks is "pressure sensitive", so, they should
not be pressed down until you are
Now, at this point, you
should inspect the area of your casting for hood, door, or bodyline creases in
the area of the mask...if any of these intersect with the masks area, then you
will want to use your fingernail or maybe the back edge of an exacto blade to push the mask into these creases so that
any possible seepage of paint under the mask in these areas will be avoided.
Once this is done, and the mask is completely pressed down, you can peel the
application film away. Generally it’s best to peel from the front or larger
part of the design to the tips of the flames.
Repeat these steps as
necessary for all masks you wish to apply until you are satisfied with their
placement. Do a final check for loose edges, and then your ready to top coat
with the main color as you normally would apply it. Follow all manufacturers’
instructions for applying the paint. I know of NO paint solvents that will have
any effect on the masks material, so, this stage should be just like painting
the casting as if the masks were not installed....however, I do suggest using
thin coats of top color and only as much as it takes to completely
"hide" the previous (or flame) color. Excessive build up will create
the need for more clear coat to even the surface and
can lead to undesirable results and shortened mask reusability.
Once the desired color and coverage
has be achieved, allow a few minutes to dry so it is at least tacky, then
CAREFULLY remove the mask by peeling from front to tips for best results. You
may need to use the exacto blade or precision
tweezers to get under the edge of the mask and pull it up, but, please use
caution not to cut your mask or marr the paint. Its a good idea to let the paint dry before attempting to
use the exacto to pull the mask edge up. Some masks
may be able to have a excess portion of their material
hanging of the edge of your casting, which makes it a lot easier to remove the
mask, however, this may not always be the case.
With mask(s) removed now just clear coat and YOU
Also if you were careful
removing the mask, you can store it now for another use!! Just reapply to the
coated paper backing or wax paper so you can use it again!! Please note that
although the adhesive will grip many times, sooner or later there will be a
build up of paint on your mask that will give you a jagged or distorted edge...this
should take at least two or more sessions, but, will depend greatly on how
thickly the paint is sprayed over the mask to begin with. I DO NOT Recommend
that you attempt to clean the paint off these masks at any time!! This could
lead to damaging the mask or tiny debris from the wiping cloth becoming
attached to the quickly drying paint on the mask and transferring to your next
project upon reuse.
METHOD TWO:
When painting the
You will need to use
the OUTER MASK.
Its application is the Same As what is described above, but, of course OPPOSITE in regard to painting the
flames. The main color is applied then when dry, the mask is applied, flames
painted and mask is removed.
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